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Switch100 Troubleshooting guide.

Spare parts websites
http://www.electricbikestop.com
http://www.scooterpartscatalog.com/
http://www.ebikes.ca/store/store_accessories.php
http://www.evdeals.com/Parts.htm
http://superkids.stores.yahoo.net/scooterparts.html
http://superkids.stores.yahoo.net/elbipa.html
http://tncscooters.com/

Electronics parts not necessarily ebike
http://www.digikey.com/
http://www.robotshop.ca
http://www.allelectronics.com
http://www.chinesemotoparts.com/

DIY
http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.powercroco.de%2F&langpair=de|en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/models/motor_info.htm


PEDALING DOESN'T WORK.

If you can pedal but the pedaling does not produce any forward motion examine the chain to make sure it is not thrown off the sprockets. If the chain is firmly on the sprockets then see if you have lost the bolt that locks the pedal crank shaft to the chain sprocket. This bolt is held in place by two nuts. If the nuts came loose and fell off the bolt may have fallen out. Replace the bolt. In an emergency for short term usage a short bent nail may suffice. Be sure that neither end of the nail reaches the chain as the end of the nail may become lodged between the sprocket and chain derailing the chain or bending the sprocket teeth.



How to remove a tire in order to patch it.

The blue line is where the tire edge usually sits. If you need to pull the tube out to patch it or change it  simply prying the tire over the rim is incredibly difficult. The EASY way to do it is to push the tire into the center groove (green line position) so the tire can be pulled over the rim. this smaller radius is what provides the extra slack to move the tire over the rim.  Replacement tubes can be generic 16"x2, 16x2.125, 16x2.25 etc.., even 14" can work they will expand to fit.  Tires can be 16x3 or 16x2.5. 16 x 2 will probably work as well.   Be careful ordering tires, some companies measure from center point to road surface others from center point to rim. 

I highly suggest drilling hole for a second inner tube and having two tubes in the tire, one not inflated(or only partially inflated). If you get a flat simply inflate the second one.  I've never had a front tire flat, just back tires.
Better yet don't remove the tire at all  http://www.flybikesbmx.com/en/news/post_1001  keep an eye on these for a 14 to 16" versions at your local bicycle shop.
How to adjust the brakes.
If simply turning the knob will not generate enough
stopping force then the arm itself can be adjusted.

Undo the knob so it comes off the brake line. Undo the bolt [in the red circle in the picture to the right], pull the arm out from the wheel, rotate a few degrees, careful not to rotate it so far the brake line won't fit back in. Push the arm back in. Tighten the bolt again. Reattach the knob.

The rear brake is similar, the arm just looks a little different.

Switch 100 rear brake is similar but more like a regular bicycle pull with a cable and nut/bolt instead of a knob. See picture to right

Switch 100 rear brake


Here is the front wheel brake pads. Just undo the springs and they come off. These can be bought at any motor cycle/scooter shop or online. Ranging in price from $10 to $50.Take note of the springs and how far apart they are spaced from the center bar. This is a critical distance that must be met using a generic replacement. If the springs are closer to the bar then they should be they won't fit on the wheel or will scrape making noise.

As winter salt and water get at the brake arms they may no longer swing freely, Remove the assembly from the bike and submerge it for an hour in common vinegar. Manipulate the arm preriodically every few minutes. Keep repeating until the arm swings freely. Submerg again for another hour to remove external rust if desired and that should do it. Re-assemble.


Lights.
Are all 48V on the small bikes, the large (look like a gas scooter)ones have a dc to dc converter and are 12V.
Try bulbtown.com or Scooterpartscatalog.com for replacements if you can't find them anywhere else.

Bearings
The inner section of the motor  is connected to the axle via two bearings . The axel is connected directly by the frame.  One bearing on each side of the wheel. These bearings are the only mechanical connection of the motor/wheel to the frame (NTN6000LLB/2ASU1 are proper size replacements for the bearings).


The Front of a quark wheel has two of the same bearings.


Batteries.
Batteries eventually die. You need to know how to tell they need replacing. You need a voltmeter to measure the voltage. On a fresh off the charger pack the
voltage should read 54V. As the batteries age this will drop. It is more accurate to measure each battery individually.  Each cell will charge up to over13.5 V. If the battery is coming off the charger at 10V it's toast and needs to be replaced. If it falls close to 10V under load after short usage time it's dead.  Trying to use a dead battery with a series charger can result in the other batteries being overcharged as the charger tries to get the voltage of the pack up to 54V. It is recommended to check your pack once every six months in the first year, then once every 3 months in the second, and once every month or two in the third year. You can on occasion use a 12V automatic automotive battery charger to bring your battery pack into balance by charging each individual 12V cell. To measure a 12V battery under load you can hook it up to any 12V device like a car headlight and measure the voltage while running.

Chargers

For good replacements see....
http://myworld.ebay.ca/e-crazyman/
2.5 Amps  
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Battery-Charger-Electric-Scooter-Bike-48V-2-5A_W0QQitemZ300364399363QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45ef1d0303

1.8 Amps
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Battery-Charger-Electric-Scooter-Bike-48V-1-8A_W0QQitemZ300422648056QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45f295d0f8

Pictures of the Controller.

You can email trdfreak03@hotmail.com  about controller repairs in woodbridge Ontario. Expect pricing in the +-$50 range

Switch 100 Controller.
I have upgraded controllers available that provide better hill climb ability(not faster speed). Ask about them.
Original controller Made by Santroll
Model WZKP1001/Wzkp18a
Has 6 IRF1010 FETs
Part: IRF1010EPBF
MOSFET, 60V, 79A, 8.4 mOhm
Switching mode voltage regulator
Rated for 15-20 amps






1) Positive from Battery
2) Negative from Battery
3) Speedometer
4) Throttle
5) Hall effect sensors in motor (all same colour to same colour)
6) Battery gage
7) Blue motor phase wire (all same colour to same colour)
8) Green motor phase wire (all same colour to same colour)
9) Yellow motor phase wire (all same colour to same colour)
10) & 11) Speed reduction to 15 Km/hr  10 looks like 11 but is hidden under all the wires


500W Controller for quarkbike

350W Controller for Quarkbike

350W controller for motorino XPe


A close up of the  Mosfets in the controller


A close up of the capacitors in the 500 W controller

(only 1 cap in the 350W controller)
   
The 500W controller with the top off


2 of the 3 the heat transfers bars removed. Pic is a link






350W controller top off.





 
Note the capacitor is rated 63V. This is because a 48V battery pack fresh off the charger will measure at about 54V.  If you try to modify the bike and put too much voltage through the controller it is the Mosfets and capacitors that are likely to blow.  These are commonly available parts.



Insides for the Motor for Switch100

A thread on Endless-sphere on motor repair
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3720